Dunbeath

Fort of the birches

Dunbeath is a vibrant seaside village which clings firmly to a steep hillside on the east coast of Caithness. It is surrounded by croft land and you can enjoy expansive views across the ocean to the Moray and Aberdeenshire coasts.

In and around the village you will come across fascinating tributes to local heritage. There is the Croft Museum where you can learn about a traditional way of living off the land which has survived centuries. You can also visit the Heritage and Archaeological Centre which is dedicated to education, archaeology, activities and the environment. The Centre has recently been awarded full museum status by the Museums and Galleries Commission in recognition of its professional standards of curatorship, conservation and display along with the significance of its collections. Here you can chart the career of local man Neil Gunn who was one of Scotland’s most distinguished twentieth century authors. (A statue of Gunn stands proudly in the village.)

Dunbeath is a perfect place from which to plan a meal outdoors. There is a picturesque old mill car park which has a picnic area. A short stroll from there through beautiful countryside takes you to a well preserved broch. Another excellent picnic spot is to be found down by the small working harbour. (These harbours used to be dotted around the highlands.

From Dunbeath you can take pleasant routes to the north or south. Which ever road you choose will offer rich experiences. This is an area which is inviting for walkers and bird watchers. There is a wealth of information to be uncovered by those who have an interest in connecting with our ancestors through the study of archaeology as well as opportunities for genealogists to follow direct family connections to local places. Every turn in the road invites the keen photographer’s attention and you will find plenty to inspire you to capture your memories on camera.

It is thought that Dun Baitte was put under siege in 680 A.D. When Viking raiders moved into the north in the 9th century they were impressed by the round towers they found dominating the landscape. They named them ‘borg’, meaning fortification and it is from this that the Scottish term broch came. Dunbeath retained its own name throughout these turbulent times because it was held by the native chieftain family who were strong enough to repel raiders.

The area around Dunbeath was owned by John, Lord of the Isles in the 1300’s. The first written record of the village name dates from the 14th century. Across the northeast the landscape and the way people lived altered very little in the first two hundred and fifty years of the post-medieval period. Throughout this time Lairds rented land to their tenants through a tacksman. Within each township individual holdings were very small but there were shared common grazings. Cultivation was rig and renal; a method which has left its footprint across the northeast despite years of ploughing.

The weather conditions and the prevalence of disease made cultivation difficult. Any surplus grain was stored in coastal store houses before being shipped away. Cattle were either slaughtered for local consumption or walked south to market by drovers. At this time houses were generally built of turf and stone. Inside the space was divided with the family occupying one end whilst their animals inhabited the other. Tenants were obliged to take up arms for their laird or clans.

Neil Gunn engaged his imagination and wrote novels set in different eras. One of his books centres on Vikings. A visit to Dunbeath reveals how a landscape can foster creativity and inspiration in everyone.